Tomato Disease - Blossom End Rot

If you've ever worked a Master Gardener Hotline or been the Plant Doctor at the Flower Lawn and Garden Show, you can answer Blossom-end rot questions without looking.

There will come a time in your life when you would swear that every single tomato grower in the Heartland has asked – and you have graciously answered their question, “What is Blossom End Rot?” and “How do I get rid of it?”

Just when you think everyone with a garden knows the answer, it's another season, there's another garden and someone else asks, “Now what did you say about blossom end rot?” and “How do I get rid of it?”

Blossom-end rot happens when we start with a wet tomato growing season but then - just as fruit is setting - the soil becomes too dry.

Blossom-end rot is a calcium imbalance. But chances are, you have plenty of calcium in your well-kept vegetable bed. The excess rain has bound up the calcium in the soil and your plant can not get enough of it. The cause is extreme fluctuations in the garden's moisture level.

It's ugly and I've seen it happen to bell peppers too. The best advice is to remove the offending fruit, keep the soil moisture constant. Problem solved.

If soil is way too wet or too dry, the problem will return. Try to keep the soil evenly moist. If you have just gone nuts and over fertilized the garden, added too much nitrogen, there is high salt content, root damage from over zealous cultivation (hoeing), or extreme pH levels will contribute to the problem.

Wait until the ground is warm enough to plant your tomatoes. Cold soil limits nutrient uptake. Wait till days are 60 degrees before planting tomatoes. Otherwise, they sit there and refuse to grow.

Tomatoes like neutral (7.0) to slightly acid soil 6.5) They can absorb nutrients best when the soil pH is 6.5 to 7.0.

If you feel compelled to doctor your plants, there are products that will solve your calcium deficiency.